Finishing a neck
Finishing a neck
Just ordered a warmoth neck w/ rosewood fingerboard , I want to give it more of an aged finish on teh headstock and back. Anyone got any good tips for this ?
Don't bitch to me about the economy while you're still buying Chinese products.
The back you might end up having to do some work to that'll give it an
"aged" look quick. When I got the one on my strat, it was thick as a log
in depth and width. Like a capital C if the usual "C" is lower case.
Sanded it down until it felt right...then did the same to my other necks to
try to match. Put something on to keep moisture out, obviously, but it's
"aged" from normal use really nicely.
"aged" look quick. When I got the one on my strat, it was thick as a log
in depth and width. Like a capital C if the usual "C" is lower case.
Sanded it down until it felt right...then did the same to my other necks to
try to match. Put something on to keep moisture out, obviously, but it's
"aged" from normal use really nicely.
DaveP.
"You must be this beautiful to ride the Quagmire."
"You must be this beautiful to ride the Quagmire."
Not having a finish will definitely get the neck looking pretty old pretty quick. But, if it's a new maple neck from Warmoth, you'll most likely have to apply a clear coat to maintain any sort of warranty. (Only their really dense necks like rosewood, wenge, ebony, and purpleheart are ok if used unfinished.)
Also, are you going for a 'vintage' look or more of a 'relic' look?
Most 'vintage tinted' necks just use an amber stain. You may find something usable at Lowe's.
Or you can try my method. I love water-based paints, so why wouldn't I love water-based wood coloring, right? That's why I started using food coloring! It works great. It's messy (wear gloves!) and there is no 'light coating'. It's hard to get it even, so you're best off applying a generous coat over the whole thing to get an even coat; just make sure you like the color first! And it's best to clear coat it ASAP (at least after most of the moisture from the food coloring has dried) because it will get everywhere if you don't.
Also, I'm assuming it's an unfinished neck, but if not make sure any existing finish is completely removed so the stain absorbs evenly.
So, make sure you have a nice clear coat on hand, mix yourself some yellow w/ a dab of red food coloring to desired 'vintage' tint, test on the neck heel or scrap maple, and finish away!
Keep us posted w/ before and after pics!
Also, are you going for a 'vintage' look or more of a 'relic' look?
Most 'vintage tinted' necks just use an amber stain. You may find something usable at Lowe's.
Or you can try my method. I love water-based paints, so why wouldn't I love water-based wood coloring, right? That's why I started using food coloring! It works great. It's messy (wear gloves!) and there is no 'light coating'. It's hard to get it even, so you're best off applying a generous coat over the whole thing to get an even coat; just make sure you like the color first! And it's best to clear coat it ASAP (at least after most of the moisture from the food coloring has dried) because it will get everywhere if you don't.
Also, I'm assuming it's an unfinished neck, but if not make sure any existing finish is completely removed so the stain absorbs evenly.
So, make sure you have a nice clear coat on hand, mix yourself some yellow w/ a dab of red food coloring to desired 'vintage' tint, test on the neck heel or scrap maple, and finish away!
Keep us posted w/ before and after pics!
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All kinetic, no potential.
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All kinetic, no potential.
.
Vintage in color yes, not necesarilly worn looking. Its going on a sunburst body and I think the darker tint looks better on sunburst. I think I'll look into the stains and try that. Any suggestions for the clear ? a spray polyurethane? I don't like a real sticky feel, maybe just regular clear spray ?MOONDOGGY wrote:Also, are you going for a 'vintage' look or more of a 'relic' look?
Most 'vintage tinted' necks just use an amber stain. You may find something usable at Lowe's.
Keep us posted w/ before and after pics!
Don't bitch to me about the economy while you're still buying Chinese products.
I've never been very happy w/ a wipe-on poly. But, there's a lot of cheapo clear coats in a can that are pretty crappy too. I'd say look for a top quality polyurethane in a can. Apply many coats w/ a very fine steel wooling between each coat. Then to avoid the tackiness, maybe use a slightly more coarse steel wool to finish it off.
I must warn you though, I've never been very good at clear coats. I always end up using a LOT of elbow grease polishing out any flaws (I don't own a buffer!). And I've never been very pleased with my poly finishes.
If you'd be happy with only a Slightly amber-colored tint, you could go with a tung oil. There might even be some tung oils that have more tint than others. Tung oils are a breeze to apply and are the best finish I've used. Here's 2 basses I've done w/ Tung oil. (Both are early-mid 90s, so the maple may have already been a bit 'tinted'.)
Tung oil w/ no polishing- just a light steel wool buffing:
Tung oil w/ a hand polish using Nu Finish car polish:
This is all experimental stuff for me, so you may find after talking to some pros, that I don't know what I'm talking about!!! Keep us posted.
I must warn you though, I've never been very good at clear coats. I always end up using a LOT of elbow grease polishing out any flaws (I don't own a buffer!). And I've never been very pleased with my poly finishes.
If you'd be happy with only a Slightly amber-colored tint, you could go with a tung oil. There might even be some tung oils that have more tint than others. Tung oils are a breeze to apply and are the best finish I've used. Here's 2 basses I've done w/ Tung oil. (Both are early-mid 90s, so the maple may have already been a bit 'tinted'.)
Tung oil w/ no polishing- just a light steel wool buffing:
Tung oil w/ a hand polish using Nu Finish car polish:
This is all experimental stuff for me, so you may find after talking to some pros, that I don't know what I'm talking about!!! Keep us posted.
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All kinetic, no potential.
.
All kinetic, no potential.
.