I have an ESP MH-201 that I absolutely love the sound of, but the neck is shot. Truss rod is stripped and the frets are a mess. Does anyone out there have a neck or maybe a beat up guitar with a decent neck that might fit? The bolts look like this:
http://www.pic2fly.com/viewimage/ESP%20 ... GVlbC5qcGc[/url]
Guitar neck needed for ESP
Guitar neck needed for ESP
"This above all: to thine own self be true."
~Polonius, Shakespeare's 'Hamlet'
~Polonius, Shakespeare's 'Hamlet'
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metalchurch
- Diamond Member
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Friday Feb 09, 2007
- Location: Somerset
You need a 24 fret/25.5" scale neck with a locking nut.
Most any Jackson/ESP/Ibanez,etc... will fit.
The odd bolt pattern is a non issue, all you need to do is drill that hole in your new neck and bolt it on.
Use your neck plate as a template to transfer your screw location. And try to be careful that you don't drill too deep and come out of the other side.
Here'a tip for that:
Take your body and put the neck plate on and put a screw through the hole that you need drilled (some guitars have 2 short/2long, that's why I specified that you use the exact hole), anyway, do that and measure how much is sticking up through the neck pocket and thats how deep you need to go. Actually you can probably go 1/16" to 1/8" shallower than you think, because the screw tapers on the end, and isn't a constant diameter.
* After measuring the protruding screw length, measure both of your drill bits, and mark the bit by wrapping a piece of masking tape around it.*
That's your make shift depth guage.
Also take special care to drill at a perfect angle.
*Another tip for that would be just to bolt your neck on and use your body as a guide for your drill bit. You can cheat by taking a razor blade to the finish around the screw holes that way if by chance you sneeze or fart, your drill bit doesn't cock at an angle and digs into your paint and takes a huge chip out of it, which in your luck couldn't be covered up with your neckplate....
Always best to drill first with a drill bit that's smaller than what you need, because it's sort of like a pilot hole and keeps cracking/stretching/splintering to a minimum.
You'll also most likely have to intonate it, and you will certainly need to adjust your new neck as well as set the action/string height, bridge height.
There's a lot of work involved in this, and most certainly that's just to get it playable...but to get it to play good is really the name of the game...
If I still lived in the area I'd do all of that for free, but I'm over an hour away. I haven't worked on anything but my own stuff for a good many years, so it would be nice to do something for someone else for a change.
I run into parts all the time, but you'll have atleast $50 in a useable neck. All of my extra necks are 22 fret except for a 24 fret Jackson neck that's already to another project.
I'll keep my eyes peeled for you, so maybe I can find one that's decent enough for you. Maybe you can work out a trade or trade+cash so it's not so hard on your purse, I mean wallet LOL
That's a nice guitar you have there.
FWIW I always hated the allen head type truss rods, because most times they are already on there way to being stripped out by the time you get it.
I wonder if the end nut (the part you are describing) is replaceable?
Be nice if I could take a look at it. Maybe tomorrow?? I'm headed to Hollidaysburg to see Sullivan (my son), so maybe while he is napping I could meet up with you. Do you still live in the same place?
Call or txt me
814-701-1134
Most any Jackson/ESP/Ibanez,etc... will fit.
The odd bolt pattern is a non issue, all you need to do is drill that hole in your new neck and bolt it on.
Use your neck plate as a template to transfer your screw location. And try to be careful that you don't drill too deep and come out of the other side.
Here'a tip for that:
Take your body and put the neck plate on and put a screw through the hole that you need drilled (some guitars have 2 short/2long, that's why I specified that you use the exact hole), anyway, do that and measure how much is sticking up through the neck pocket and thats how deep you need to go. Actually you can probably go 1/16" to 1/8" shallower than you think, because the screw tapers on the end, and isn't a constant diameter.
* After measuring the protruding screw length, measure both of your drill bits, and mark the bit by wrapping a piece of masking tape around it.*
That's your make shift depth guage.
Also take special care to drill at a perfect angle.
*Another tip for that would be just to bolt your neck on and use your body as a guide for your drill bit. You can cheat by taking a razor blade to the finish around the screw holes that way if by chance you sneeze or fart, your drill bit doesn't cock at an angle and digs into your paint and takes a huge chip out of it, which in your luck couldn't be covered up with your neckplate....
Always best to drill first with a drill bit that's smaller than what you need, because it's sort of like a pilot hole and keeps cracking/stretching/splintering to a minimum.
You'll also most likely have to intonate it, and you will certainly need to adjust your new neck as well as set the action/string height, bridge height.
There's a lot of work involved in this, and most certainly that's just to get it playable...but to get it to play good is really the name of the game...
If I still lived in the area I'd do all of that for free, but I'm over an hour away. I haven't worked on anything but my own stuff for a good many years, so it would be nice to do something for someone else for a change.
I run into parts all the time, but you'll have atleast $50 in a useable neck. All of my extra necks are 22 fret except for a 24 fret Jackson neck that's already to another project.
I'll keep my eyes peeled for you, so maybe I can find one that's decent enough for you. Maybe you can work out a trade or trade+cash so it's not so hard on your purse, I mean wallet LOL
That's a nice guitar you have there.
FWIW I always hated the allen head type truss rods, because most times they are already on there way to being stripped out by the time you get it.
I wonder if the end nut (the part you are describing) is replaceable?
Be nice if I could take a look at it. Maybe tomorrow?? I'm headed to Hollidaysburg to see Sullivan (my son), so maybe while he is napping I could meet up with you. Do you still live in the same place?
Call or txt me
814-701-1134
-
metalchurch
- Diamond Member
- Posts: 3719
- Joined: Friday Feb 09, 2007
- Location: Somerset
